Tierra de Campos
Tierra de Campos avatar

Posted on 03/05/2012 by Carlos

Spreading through the provinces of Palencia, Valladolid, Leon and Burgos we find Tierra de Campos, an area known for its cereal production, wolves, birds of pray and Great Bustard populations, pigeon and cheese production and for its navigable Canal de Castilla, that covers 207km, among many other attractions.

Once populated by the Vacceo tribe, one of the oldest inhabitants in Iberia, the area was colonized by Romans and later by Gothics from whom the area takes its name: Campos Goticos. It later became the battle field between the Kingdoms of Leon and Castilla before the Catholic Monarchs unified the country in the 15th century.

Talk about an undiscovered area of Spain located about an hour away from either Valladolid, Palencia where lots of hidden treasures await you. This is the kind of region you have to put some love and effort into getting to know.

Roman Bridge

Roman Bridge

Some of the historic vestiges include the Roman bridge at Valderaduey or the remaining rollos or justice columns at Villalon de Campos, Mayorga or Aguilar de Campos to name a few. These were used by local landlords to apply justice in the name of the King. They were banned later on but locals have kept them as a tribute to history.

In regards to their medieval jewels, the Church of San Miguel in Villalon de Campos is a good example, built in brick, following the original Spanish Mudejar arabic style with Gothic elements.  Also the church of San Justo y Pastor, boasting an amazing mudejar wooden ceiling in the village of Cuenca de Campos, is another wonder that deserve special attention.

No region of Spain is deprived of great culinary delights and traditions. This area is no exception. From its Lechazo or suckling lamb, its amazing legumes like the lentils or garbanzo beans, the delicious pigeon or their grilled version of the Castillian soup or their Pata de Mulo sheep cheese, all will satisfy the most demanding palats.

Pigeon growers are well known here. This practice goes back centuries and provides a delicacy to eat like in the old days, with your hands.  This is not just your average park pigeon, it is a very special one and these tiny birds remain very tender as they have not taken any flights yet. The time of the year to try them is Summer.

Palomares Tierra de Campos

Palomares Tierra de Campos

Stop by Restaurant La Tata in Cuenca de Campos, where Goyo knows its secrets and produces some of the regions best dishes. This village is well known for its Pigeon houses or Palomares, where they grow them.

The cheese Pata de Mulo is one of the varieties of cheese you find in the area. Villalon de Campos is where this fresh cheese is produced. Like with other Spanish cheeses, this one goes particularly well with quince jelly or membrillo.

Museum lovers also have their choice here.  The Bread museum provides  an ambitious display and illustration of how they make the world famous Castille bread.  You also have the museums of the shoes and the cheese, both in Villalon de Campos or the thematic visitor centers dedicated to hunting, old harvest machinery, etc.

If you are touring Castilla Leon region, spend at least one night in Villalon de Campos or nearby and try to enjoy some of its attractions. A good time to go is in Spring and Fall, and especially for its Festivities like the El Vitor, where locals go on a procession with burning pig wine skins or the Holy week in Cuenca de Campos.The area offers some friendly and rustic accommodations like:

To enjoy the local home made food try:

CTR “Bodega La Tata” en Cuenca de Campos for their pigeon in summer months or their delicious meat and legumes, especially the Cocido. CTR La Huerta Mantilla also offers very unique local cuisine including their lentils and lechazo tiny stewed lambs. Last, in Villalon, Restaurante Peña de Villalón de Campos is great for lamb, Castilian soup or other local specialties.

Cocido with garbanzo beans

Cocido with garbanzo beans

I hope these tips will facilitate your discovery of this hidden region of Northern Castilla. If, on the contrary,  you rather have an Spain travel expert plan your trip or guide you around the area, contact me at carlos@letango.com

Posted in Accomodation, Art, Culture, Essentials, Food, Handycrafts, History, Monuments, Nature, Travel Tips, Wine | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Sevilla
Sevilla avatar

Posted on 02/08/2012 by Mark

Sevilla may not boast quite the international reputation of Spain’s most visited cities, Madrid and Barcelona but easily rivals and in truth probably surpasses both cities in terms of impressive and significant historical sights. The magnificent Plaza de Espana is arguably the most impressive square in all of Spain. The giant 15th Century Cathedral towers above the city and claims to be the largest church in the world. Take a stroll in the surrounding streets and you will get a feel for the once vibrant and still fascinating Jewish neighbourhood of Santa Cruz. There’s a whole host of other significant churches, palaces and museums which all add to the ancient charm of the place.

The city has changed somewhat since its 16th century golden age but hasn’t lost touch with its roots. Two of Sevilla’s main passions are flamenco and bull-fighting. They have little in common with each other but the best time to experience either is undoubtedly during the Feria de Sevilla in April when almost the entire city comes out to party. It’s a very Spanish affair with traditional dress, food and street dancing all playing a big part in the week-long celebration. You can of course try your hand at the passionate art of flamenco any time during the year but most visitors to Sevilla opt to sit back and watch the shows which take place practically every night. Bull-fighting takes place at the impressive Plaza de Toros and remains a very popular pastime in this part of Spain.

The city is by no means all about history and tradition however and with a huge student population, Sevilla threatens to burst into life on any night of the week. In the summer especially the nightlife is great when open-air discos and hundreds of bars party on till past dawn. There’s no shortage of places to sample Andalucian food either. Head down to the banks of the river for some great views and tasty tapas or relax in a restaurant in one of the city’s lesser known yet often equally charming plazas. Sundays tend to be much quieter affairs so head to one of the various street markets around town if you’re looking for some action.

Getting around is easy provided you don’t get lost in the old towns narrow winding streets. If you’re reasonably fit, you can easily see the city’s main sights on foot and there are plenty of quaint little bars and coffee-shops if you need to catch your breath. Sevilla also boasts a modern metro system which was opened as recently as 2009 should you need to travel out to some of the Southern neighbourhoods or just fancy a swifter journey. There are also cheap trams and buses which may be of use during the stiflingly hot summer months. Sevilla is committed to being a ‘green’ city and has an imaginative ‘Sevici’ bike system where you can cycle around the city by hopping on and off a bike at one of the many special docking stations around town.

The city may be the beating heart of Andalucía but there is so much else to see in the region. The historical towns of Cordoba and Granada are all possible day-trips but have more than enough intrigue to warrant a longer stay. Head south and it won’t be long before you hit some glorious beaches with Cadiz, an ancient coastal city perhaps a good starting point and the trip from Sevilla will only take a little over an hour.

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Turron, Marzipan and other Christmas desserts in Spain
Turron, Marzipan and other Christmas desserts in Spain avatar

Posted on 12/14/2011 by Jen
casa mira

Casa MIra Madrid

This year, I am going to the U.S. for Christmas to visit my family. I was trying to think of something I could bring to share with everyone that is very representative of Christmas in Spain. I´ve got the perfect gift. Turron. It travels well, it´s not a liquid and it doesn´t go bad in two days.

What is Turron my family will ask? The name is most likely derived from the latin term torrere (to toast). It´s origins date back to the early centuries when Spain was conquered by the Muslims. The Muslims had a similar dessert called Turun. The ingredients are the most important clue to the Arabic origins consisting of honey, sugar and egg whites with a variation of different types of nuts including almonds, pine nuts and hazelnuts. Another important element to consider, explained to me by the owner of, Horno La Santiaguesa, a famous bakery in Madrid, is that during the early centuries in Spain, there was no way to keep food cold and the main ingredients found in turron, did not need refrigeration. That was typical of many culinary specialties as the Spaniards mastered the art of food preservation whether it was salting or drying methods, oil or vinegar.

Most countries including the U.S. have a traditional dessert or many that they serve at Christmas time. In Spain, Turron is the most typical and common in every Spanish household.  I describe it as our equivalent to fudge but that is not exactly accurate. The varieties are endless with different consistencies and appearances but there are a few famous ones you should be aware of and try if you have the opportunity.

The hard one that is white, and chalk full of almonds is referred to as Alicante. It is very similar to our peanut brittle but with almonds. The soft one, referred to as Turron Blando is a combination of almonds and honey that is been cooked into a sticky paste. While that doesn´t sound very appealing, a good one from Jijona, will melt in your mouth and you will be coming back for more as it is quite exquisite.  The village is famous for its turron and even has a museum. One of my absolute favourites isYema tostada which is a wonderful combination with egg yolks as well. Try all three as they are very different from eachother and give you a good idea of the variety. If you go to Casa Mira in Madrid, one of the most famous shops for good turron, you will find many versions that will suit just about any kind of sweet tooth including those for chocolate, coconut and candied fruits. If you don´t make it to Casa Mira either due to geographical limitations or the fact that you don´t want to battle the crowds, there are many other vendors selling Turron this time of year. Every supermarket, large or small has something in stock. Every bakery carries at least a couple. If you find you don´t have even an ounce of space left in your suitcase, try La Tienda in the States. They carry quite a few and they make for very nice gifts.

How is turron served? As turron is very sweet and decadent, you take it in small bites. My Spanish mother in law, Elena, does a beautiful presentation every year on her best silver platter. You cut the turron into little pieces and squares and piece them together until you get a gorgeous mosaic of all the different types to choose from. Everyone has a favourite. Don’t forget some of the other important contributions to the Spanish Christmas dessert platter. Marzipan is another almond dessert most famous from Toledo, with the brand name of Santo Tome. I would say this is the version we are more familiar with and a delicacy with long and well respected tradition. Don´t forget the beautifully packaged polvorones and if accompanied by amateurs, you must give instruction on how to smash it down so the cookie does not crumble when eaten. Finally, if given the chance you must try the Frutas Confitadas, also sold in Casa Mira. It has taken me 10 long years to earn my addiction for these wonderful juicy candied fruits and it is the first treat I reach for on the platter. Banana, melon, orange, cherries, plums, whatever you fancy, these little fruits are just as divine as they are expensive, but they are worth it.

What do you do with the leftovers? That is the best part! After 1,2, 3, 6 days, they are still in good shape and you can continue your binge through New Year´s and up until Reyes. Then it is time for Roscon and that I will save for another article! Enjoy!

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Riña de Gatos
Riña de Gatos avatar

Posted on 12/09/2011 by Carlos

A wonderful novel by Eduardo Mendoza, Riña de Gatos covers the stages prior to the Spanish civil war by presenting the case of a british art expert who comes to Spain to evaluate a painting. His adventures in Madrid are not only funnny but dangerous and the novel allows a foreigner to understand the situation in Madrid during those times. Characters like the founder of Falange and Franco as well as spies,  diplomats and aristochrats make this novel a very entertaining way of learning the history of Spain in the 1930′s.

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Cooking in Madrid
Cooking in Madrid avatar

Posted on 11/30/2011 by Carlos
Cooking class

Cooking class

Food is an important part of tourism. While asking travelers priorities during their trips, I have had people tell me before that food is absolutely not a priority for them. I get dissapointed when I hear that. Why? I am a foodie. I believe in Food as a way to understand a culture and the history of any destination, but in particular, Spain. The reason for that is the amount of influences in raw materials and techniques that our country has received over the milenia from cultures like the Jewish, Islamic, Roman, Greek, Germanic, Iberian, etc.  Combine that with the influences of the Americas since the conquest and you have a complex food mosaic that give today world reputation to our cuisine.

If you are visiting Madrid and would like to have an insight into the history of tapas, how to prepare some traditional tapas in the company of someone who loves her job as a chef, don’t hesitate to contact Gabriela, as she will help you remember and most likely become hooked to Spanish food.

You can read a recently printed article by Alasdair Baverstock on her Spanish cooking class to have another point of view.

If you are interested in a cooking class and are planning a trip to Madrid, contact Gabriela. You will not be disappointed. She can adjust to different scenarios and menus, take you to the market, have you cook with her or just observe. In any case you  will end up tasting amazing food cooked in  a simple and traditional way with lots of care and love.

Contact her at madridchef@letango.com

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Portrait of a Spanish Artist
Portrait of a Spanish Artist avatar

Posted on 11/29/2011 by Ana_Ruiz

My father, Manuel Ruiz, was born in Madrid in 1920. When he was a young boy of 10 years old, he would often take delight in visiting the Prado Museum not only to admire the works of the greats such as El Greco, Velázquez, Murillo, Goya, and Sorolla, but would later spend hours at home reproducing their works.
His younger sister Maria, who accompanied him, often recounts how crowds would gather at the Prado to watch her brother sketch their works of art. My father often told me, as he fondly remembered, how he rushed home after his museum visits with great anticipation and spent hours mixing the colors and playing with lights until he would produce the exact same shade or hue as his idols.
When he was 12, he displayed his collection of 24 paintings at a public exhibition in Madrid that earned him Honorable Mention. Of that collection, here is the actual reproduction of the painting by Velázquez known as The Surrender of Breda, aka The Lances, that he painted in 1932. This artwork is part of a private collection in Spain.

The Lances

The Lances

As a result of his first public exhibition, he became one of the youngest artists ever to gain a scholarship entrance into the prestigious Escuela de Artes y Oficios de Madrid, (Madrid Academy of Fine Arts) where he was awarded a diploma at the age of 14. A few years later, when he and his family relocated to Seville, he continued his passion and enrolled at the Escuela de Artes y Oficios de Sevilla.
Manuel was awarded a travelling bursary to study art in Italy for a year during his late teens, however he was called to perform compulsory military duty for the Spanish Civil War. As a result, he lost this precious time and opportunity. During those days in the military, his fellow soldiers nicknamed him ‘pinceles’ (paintbrush) for his artistic talent and for his slimness.

Curiously, my father married the daughter of a muse who frequently posed for Joaquín Sorolla García. García was the son of the famous Valencian painter, Joaquin Sorolla known as the “Master of Light.” Sorolla’s works are displayed at his home in Madrid that has been converted to the Museo Sorolla; the only museum in the city entirely devoted one artist.

Asturias

Asturias

It was in the mid 40′s when my grandmother Isabel Marin Serrano posed for García who inherited his father’s talent. My mother recalls playing for hours as a child at the very house while her mother modeled for the younger Sorolla. In 2009, I visited the museum and the curator was kind enough to show me these sketches of my grandmother that were meticulously stored in vaults of the basement. These artworks are displayed online in the catalog of the Sorolla museum.

Through the decades, Manuel took delight in painting dramatic scenes of Spain; from the hanging houses of Cuenca to the Moorish walls of Avila; from the Alcázar of Jaén to the majestic Alhambra in Granada.

In 1961, Manuel came to Canada with his family and established his home. Here, he shifted from oils to watercolors and from Moorish and Spanish Mediterranean scenes to experimenting with contrasting Canadian autumn and winter scenes.

Toledo

Toledo

Manuel continued to exhibit his paintings at art galleries and shows throughout the country, winning awards, and opening his own art school in the 80′s. Just prior to retiring during the late 80′s, the boy who copied the Prado greats was honored in Canadian art publications as the “best watercolorist in Canada during the 1970′s and 1980′s.”

Today, the granddaughter of my aunt Maria carries the artistic torch in the family as she has become an artist in her own right. Visit her website and you will also see my aunt’s oil portrait dressed as a bullfighter from an actual photo taken by my father long ago.
Echoing Sorolla’s title of “Master of Light”, Manuel Ruiz was known as a “Master of Color.” Sadly he passed away on New Years Day in 2010. He will forever be greatly missed by his family and friends and continues to bring us joy each day through his art. Please visit his web page

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